Sleeping inside the walls: three days in a medieval city that survived whole.
Khiva's real advantage is staying the night. Once the day-trippers leave, Itchan Kala empties and you have the walls almost to yourself. The hotel is inside the fortress too, in a converted madrasah.
Arrive from Urgench and enter through the west gate. Watch the sunset from the wall in the evening.
The tiled courtyards of the khan's palace, then the Juma Mosque with its 213 wooden columns and the climb up the Islam Khoja minaret.
Wood-carving and carpet-weaving workshops, then the transfer to Urgench airport.
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